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 Post subject: wet dry water filter
PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 6:22 am 
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Not being able to do hard plumbing in my home I have tried to could come up with a recirculating water filter system. I am looking for input as to if this would work with wild altums. I would have float valves to eliminate overflow (hopefully). Looking to be able to use top off and one water change a week.

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Last edited by DLFL on Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:51 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 12:46 pm 
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Is that a triple housing / cartridge filter setup just above the pump?

Pretty evident I guess... so what kind of cartridges do you plan to put in the housings?

It'd be nice to have a UV sterilizer where I see the filter housings????

Except for the housings this looks like a simple biological sump...

When we talk "recirculating water system" we usually refer to a multiple tank array in where water recirculates through a series of aquariums, then through a single (or series of) biological or combined bio/mech/chem unit before headed back to the aquariums. I'm not saying yours is not a recirculating system, as technically it is, just that we usally apply the term "recirculating" when speaking of connected multiple tanks that share a same main biofilter.

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Ed

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 3:33 pm 
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ED,
The uv and filter cartridges, I have seen that type of unit. I had thought to just use sediment and two charcoal cartridges. What would you suggest?

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:08 pm 
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Not to alter your design considerably, you might simplify it and maybe make it more cost effective, as well as efficient... maybe where the blue pad is, just after your filter sock, I would place a nylon screen colander to hold some granulated activated carbon (though I don't use GAC in most of my filters), or simply place a bag made of nylon or plastic screen with the GAC under the sock.
Instead of the Filter housings, i would have a good quality spiral UV sterilizer in this position.

As to your sponge material..what are you thinking of...Poret?

I prefer vertical biofiltration layouts than horizontal and my favorite of all media are extruded clay pellets, second choice, polystyrene beads, then extruded polystyrene spheres (AKA foam packing peanuts or balls) and then, pot scrubs. All these work just like Seachem Matrix or Eheim Substrat or Lav. The polystyrene stuff is buoyant, which could be a great advantage in a well designed system, supporting higher DO levels.

Then your sponge filtration, in the way you have it set out, could develop anaerobic areas (depending on flow speed), which in turn could help develop some interesting nitrate removing bacteria colonies.

Now, all said, don't ever take the sock off, because if too much debris gets into your sponge system, you could allow a dangerous overload of the sponges which could be hazardous. You'll have to see how fast the sponges allow the water to actually flow through the system.

Ed

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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 4:28 pm 
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Ed I am a bit confused on the vertical bio media and my sponge layout. Are you suggesting to use the first chamber with bio media and then the poret material? The water would flow down, then up, then down.
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PostPosted: Mon Sep 01, 2014 9:37 pm 
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So below is the design I use, you see the water falls vertically through the media through a spraybar, into one or two layers of fine filtration media (I don't use Poret foam, only because it is a bit expensive, so I use densified polyester matting, Nufoam Polyfil, from Walmart). The spraybar dispereses the water lengthwise over the media, soaking the latter and then, it drips down through the biomedia (the biomedia I use if the one that has best worked for me throughout the years, which is preferebaly Hydroton Clay Pellets, if not, polystyrene pellets, balls or peanuts or nylon pot scrubs). All the this bio and mechanical media can weigh quite a bit, in the case of clay balls, so you need a firm support that allows quick and complete drainage, and therefor we have a cheap plastic eggcrate wrapped in a plastic mesh screen so the biomedia does not fall through the eggcrate holes. You can have this bottom support plate done in acrylic, or any other material which is practical...I'm just telling you my cheap solution. Then finally three clay bricks keep everything off the glass bottom, some 6 inches above. Water level is maintained via a ball valve, just before the spray bar and we have a safety check valve after the pump.

I actually have my UV running separately at present, as a separate unit.

The cartridge setup you show, supposing we are talking of commercial 10 inch housings (under the sink type) are not designed for this application and I don't think the water flow through would be sufficient... it depends on the size of your tank and pump*. Then you have the Lifegard modules, but I don't think that was you meant to illustrate.

In anyway, water level must be below the egg crate line. You should see the water dripping or raining from the entire bottom of the layered media pack .

All you need to do now and then is remove the top mechanical layers and ring them out or replace them.

** My large tank needs at least a 1200gph pump and what I have drives almost 2500gph... you can't try to push that much water through a 10" housing array without the pump suffering.


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 6:39 am 
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That is much simpler and a lot less money. Thank you. With spiral UV units big enough for ponds do you think I could place one like I show?

Could anaerobic areas be created in the bottom or would the flow rate be too strong?


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PostPosted: Tue Sep 02, 2014 2:06 pm 
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If your UV unit is too long to fit in the space you have, you can just set it up independently, providing it with its own pump.

Then of course you can lay it down and use a good quality flexible non kink tubing of use 90 degree elbows to your convenience.

This design I use does not allow anaerobic areas because water passes quickly throughout the entire media.

You can always set up an independent denitrator and for that it's hard to beat Poret sponge. Just a 4 inch piece of rigid PVC pipe, capped at the ends and standing vertically (or horizontally, doesn't really matter), with barb fittings glued into drilled holes at the ends. The longer** the main housing is, the better, filled with sponge or lava rock, or expanded clay pellets, and a small pump, just enough to maintain circulation back to the tank, something that runs 50 - 90gph. If you do enough water changes, it may not even be worth the bother.

** i.e., a six foot long x 4 inch denitrator laid down under a six foot tank. Or a 5 foot long denitrator standing up behind a 5 ft high aquarium setup.

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PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 12:17 pm 
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This is the sump that will be with the tank I am picking up. I have drawn up what I want to do with it. Check valves and ball valves be be added. The pump is not working and I plan on replacing it with a Danner mag pump. Any suggestions?

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 Post subject: Re: wet dry water filter
PostPosted: Tue Sep 23, 2014 2:06 pm 
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Looks like a nice plan. Make sure you pump.gives enough.turnaround. only the biggest danner mags will do that.

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God listens. He may not always give you everything you want, when you want it; but he always gives you what you really need, when you need it most!
E.R.


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