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 Post subject: water a bit cloudy...
PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2012 5:59 pm 
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Location: livingston Manor N.Y.
After turning on my turbotwist Uv for a day...it seems the water is somewhat cloudy...all water parameters are good...could this be dying algae spores or is the outstream just stirring things up...

Any thoughts?...Ken


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PostPosted: Sat Dec 08, 2012 12:15 pm 
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Could be both... but yes, dying spores and bacteria, in a high amount, will cause some cloudiness but your filter should clear that up if you are using the right (fine particulate) media. You may also benefit from using Purigen.

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 09, 2012 1:09 pm 
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Ken you were asking me on the Purigen via email.

Seachem Purigen is a highly specific resin media which absorbs organic compounds, it has a very high affinity for nitrogen based organic byproducts that are produced via fish digestion and fish food residue in the water column. For this specific purpose it is the best product I have found on the market and it regenerates very easy with chlorine... works for years if well maintained (regenerated, purged with Seachem Prime, rinsed and stored damp in RO water). Please google Seachem Purigen.

Preferably use this before putting in catappa, peat or any other botanics in the water... it will definitely help to span the gap between the moment you finally place the altums into your tank and assist in balancing the impact of the now heavier bioload on your biofilters. I would also at the same time, add more Stability or whatever cycling product you are using (just enough for maintenance). and It won't have a drastic effect on the tannins, but it will clear them out given time.

Since Purigen is a media made up of very small beads (offwhite to light yellow in color and turning dark brown as they become saturated) The best way to use it is by simply installing a HOB filter on the back or side of your tank and placing the Purigen in a fine mesh bag (those sold by Seachem are of very good quality.. you can even place them in the bleach solution when regenerating the Purigen) and placing nylon filter floss or any other fine particulate media around, or before and after the Purigen. This will help the Purigen to stay clean for a longer period.

****

Here it is, http://www.seachem.com/Products/product ... rigen.html

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God listens. He may not always give you everything you want, when you want it; but he always gives you what you really need, when you need it most!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 12:46 pm 
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Ken, Ken, Ken... Please ask here!

Ken wrote:
Ed...as it is right now, my tank is very clear except for some algae on the acrylic...I can easily get 100mgs of the stuff which they recommend for my size tank...use it for 6 mo. and regenerate...will it work as well on algae spores? Since my tank has cycled and the uv, etc., I have stopped the Stability although I'm hearing that I should start it up again...get the fish (?) and just keep it going for a while...

Will the 100mg bags fit in my Eheim...I'd rather do this if it will do the trick just as well and save on my huge electric bill...Ken


1. I don't think it will help with algae spores, especially if already anchored on the acrylic. You must have enough phosphate and/or nitrates in the tank to keep them going and Purigen will not help with this. Too much light (time and/or intensity) also promotes algal reproduction. Keep in mind that your altum won't appreciate a brightly lighted tank, so make use of diffused light and a "natural" schedule of around 12-13 hrs per day of artificial aquarium lighting. Try to get help from your room lighting beyond that schedule. Make sure you don't use a phosphate based buffer or you'll likely be seeing algae here and there now and then. In the end, remember that algae, though sometimes ugly, will help keep your nitrates in order.

2. I don't like to place resin bags in canister filters. Canister filters are not meant for fiddling around with, they are meant to be setup and leave undisturbed until the readings (ammonia, nitrites) start to vary (increase). Then it's time to swap out half the media, maybe clean out the pipes and put it back to work. You should also boost the bacteria colony at that moment. By putting the resin inside a canister you will not know when the resin becomes exhausted because you won't be able to see the color change. And the clear green canister of your 2217 is dark enough so you won't have a clear view of the resin color change. You must not take for granted the six month regeneration period as that will vary per individual tank, bioload, etc.

3. If your worried about energy consumption, then place it in a basket or reactor type rigup on the output of your UV sterilizer unit. You can also rig up an HOB and simply run a hose from the UV return straight into the HOB box without plugging it in. The resin will be in the HOB box or housing. Layer the resin media bag between or roll it up in fine filter floss.

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God listens. He may not always give you everything you want, when you want it; but he always gives you what you really need, when you need it most!
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 10, 2012 12:54 pm 
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One other thing. If you choose a rather slow rated powerhead to run your UV Unit on, you can also benefit from a nitrate removal rigup along with the Purigen. You would just need to install a length of PVC pipe (length and diameter will vary according to your particular setup, but in general, a 3-4 inch diameter X 18-24 in. long pipe - Lowe's has them precut at 24 inches), capped at ends with fittings to allow the UV water to flow in and out and then into the HOB containing the Purigen. Inside the PVC pipe you will have a good substrate for the anaerobic nitrate eating bacteria (anaerobic>no or minimal oxygen>slow water throughput). This slow water system will allow maximum benefits from your UV Unit, your nitrate removal substrate and the Purigen. You place the reactor standing (vertical) allowing the water to enter the UV unit through the bottom fitting and up and out to the HOB.

At some time, I would take out the Purigen and put the botanic products (catappa, peat or whatever you choose) in the HOB.

The powerhead rating will need t consider the final output of the system. Running through the UV unit, the Nitrate Reactor and then up into the HOB holding the resin or botanics, we won't be talking a 70gph pump... just remember, you want to see a not too quick out put at the end... I think a final turnaround through your UV/nitrate removal,resin system could be around 70-90gph (1 full turn around per hour)... so your pump, in order to push through all that and still give you a 70-90gph output, will need to be stronger. My physics calculations skills for this stuff are long gone and I am not about to look up on that... so I can only recommend you get yourself something around 150-200 gph and return it if you need a lower or higher gpm pump. Or maybe TwoTankAdmin (Chris) can help you with the calculations, but only after you give him all the variables he'll need (model of UV, housing dimensions, PVC dimensions, head height, etc. etc.) and no, I'm not challenging you Chris! Just keeping you "unbored".

In the end, you will find yourself saving on (excessive) water changes once all is working as it should.

I am pretty sure your fish will end up looking like they are in thin air (except for the tannins if you use them).

PD. You'll have a ball hiding all that stuff from your wifey! It can all fit under an enclosed aquarium stand if you "europeanize" your designs. Lucky I have all my crap in the garage.


Good luck.

Ed

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God listens. He may not always give you everything you want, when you want it; but he always gives you what you really need, when you need it most!
E.R.


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