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PostPosted: Tue Jun 30, 2015 10:59 pm 
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oceanG wrote:
Thanks Ed is a god concept, you speak in the topic about the UV you consider that a must be? Because i used only when i heave healthy problems with the fishes


New wild altums... are a health problem with your fishes!

When dealing with new wild altum, you must not wait until they have a health problem, you need to take proactive action BEFORE any external pathogen have a chance to get a foothold in the aquarium, so we eliminate them as best we can via a strong UV sterilizer and a relatively slow pump... best if mounted separately and running 24/7 while they settle in. Later you can run the UV 12/7, with a timer. There will come a point when you will know they can do without UV.

The UV sterilizer I used on the system in the diagram was a 55w (Aqua Medic Heli-Max) unit off of a 55 gallon aquarium used as sump. Here you need a powerful UV unit because you will be using a stronger pump. It is meant to run 24/7.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 01, 2015 1:23 am 
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Ok , thanks


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PostPosted: Fri Jul 03, 2015 8:50 pm 
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Thanks Ed on the filter options.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 10:49 pm 
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Hello,

Referring to the use of Mattenfilters, I was reserved in the beginning because of a 'natural opposition to simplicity'. Since I'm interested in filtration systems, I've read some literature about this type of filtration. I don't use it because the only tank left isn't suited to install it, but if I had to install a new tank, I would certainly chose this type.

In fact, we read all the time about denitrifying bacteria (2 or 3 species) and in the best case an anaerobic species, but the biological environment in a filter seems to be much more complex. I read somewhere that the above mentioned species represent only a very minor part of the biomass present in the filter. The mattenfilter can be interpreted as a highly efficient gravelfilter, based on the same principle. Building up a kind of mulm where a huge variety of microscopic live is filtering the water. Potable water is also filtered on the same principle. In nature, filtration is performed partially by the bioactivity in the mulm present in the upperlayer of the bottom. (I'm not a biologist, so if I'm telling stupidities, please correct me).

Crucial seems to be the flow through the mattenfilter. Should be between 3 and 10 cm/min. If the speed is higher, micro-organism will move to places with lower throughput.
On the website of Stendker Discusfarm in Germany, you can read that they apply this system since years and that they didn't clean their mattenfilter the last 25 years.

Another type of filter, based on the same principle but more sofisticated and that is only applicable to large public aquariums today, is the DyMiCo system (Dynamic Mineral Control). Based upon the same principle, but a computer is favoring aerobic or anaerobic filtration depending on the measurement of Redox, pH, etc... Not applicable in the tank of the common aquarist, but the principle is very interesting and put another light on what filtration is (or should be).

Have a look at their website and dream of this kind of installation on your tanks.

http://www.ecodeco.nl/producten/dymico- ... steem.html

A friend of mine works at the Antwerp Zoo aquarium, where they are using succesfully this filtration as well on salt as fresh water. From an ecological point of view, they also succeeded to reduce the amount of waterchanges.

In the 90's Professor Jaubert used a much more basic system at the Aquarium of Nancy in France, known as the 'Jaubert method' in reef tanks. To my knowledge, this isn't applied anymore, but not unefficient for that reason.


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PostPosted: Sat Jul 04, 2015 11:39 pm 
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Hi Maanvis,
You may not be a biologist, but your talent for explaining complex things in a language that everyone understands makes you a great teacher!
Thanks.
Ed

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God listens. He may not always give you everything you want, when you want it; but he always gives you what you really need, when you need it most!
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PostPosted: Sun Jul 05, 2015 5:55 am 
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Hello everyone

Great knowledge sharing here..

Thanks to each one of you.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 26, 2015 10:49 pm 
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Hi,

In the video below you can see my setup filtration for my old 260 liter aquarium.
I now use the same system fro my new 468 liter aquarium and it stands up flawless.
In the description of the video you can read all the specs.

My water is crystal clear, and the fish are feeling great.
Keep in mind that I'm doing NO substrate cleaning at all. All I have is about 8 cory and 2 ancistrus that get crazy at feeding time. They move all the dirt into the intake of the filter. For this you'll need a good water movement at the bottom.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y_t63zOfr-8


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PostPosted: Tue Dec 27, 2016 9:33 pm 
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Hi Ed,

Just wondering how are your Mattenfilters doing??
I'm running Beanimal overflow with custom sump that has poret foam 30ppi in it.
I'll take pictures tomorrow. I have two chambers, one for anaerobic bacteria and one for aerobic bacteria.
I'm thinking that my setup should be very similar to Mattenfilter except that's not in the tank and fish don't have access to all that good stuff that would be growing in the filter.
Please let me know your thoughts..

Slobodan


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PostPosted: Sun Apr 16, 2017 10:23 pm 
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Hi Slobodan and sorry for this delayed reply.

I'm very glad to read you opted to keep these large biosponges out of the water column.

I had a really bad experience due to the way I had them set up.

As you know I had them set up inside the tank and powered by a strong powerhead.

The result was GREAT for the first several months, but with time, the dead bioload created by so much uneaten food and actual fish debris, became excessive, beyond the processing volume the nitrifying bacteria colonies in the sponge could handle. It was very cumbersome, virtually impossible I must say, to remove such a large sponge for rinsing and therefore, maintenance implied tearing the tank down, something totally impractical.

The tragedy attacked, when during a power outage, the oxygen levels in two of the tanks using this system were depleted in just a couple of hours, and I lost my colony of ready to breed adult L-128s.

So I would recommend this type of setup only in smaller tanks, with smaller biosponges, say up to 40 gallon long (standard U.S. "breeder tanks", they are called here) in which these "mattenfilters" are easier to handle.

For larger tanks, I think they would be great in a sump with a good prefiltration media, such as using filter socks, so the debris or uneaten foods will stay in the sock and not contaminate the biosponge.

So I am headed back to the "basics", my old infallible sump filled with fire baked clay balls and mechanical filtration material and using Poret sponges (I spent a fortune on this stuff throughout the years, so I'll find a place for it!) to aid in water clarity. I think I can build a nitrate reactor with them... I'll let you know later this year

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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 7:22 pm 
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Sorry to hear that Ed,
Your experience here is invaluable to us all..
I must say that so far I'm very happy with my setup and here is picture of my 65gal sump. That white media is from old Eheim filter that I used to seed poret foam. I'll pull it out and use only 30ppi poret foam. It has 2 filter socks at the intake of sump. I have similar setup on my 150gal tank with 40 breeder but in there I have poret foam and biohome media. I can't see any difference between poret only and combination of poret and biohome. From now on, I'll be doing poret foam only as depicted.
Chamber in the middle allows me to put heaters, probes etc while rising water column for wet/dry operation in the chamber to the right. I still have to place dripping plate in that chamber.
I know it's more complicated but after years of canister filters I find sump so much easier to maintain plus I can see what's going on in there.


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PostPosted: Wed Apr 19, 2017 8:36 pm 
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Complicated? No my friend...that is what I call the basics!
The only difference in my sumps is that I layer them horizontally

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God listens. He may not always give you everything you want, when you want it; but he always gives you what you really need, when you need it most!
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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 6:47 pm 
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puertoayacucho wrote:
Complicated? No my friend...that is what I call the basics!
The only difference in my sumps is that I layer them horizontally


:) at least I've done something right.. :)
Thanks Ed for your input..


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PostPosted: Thu Apr 20, 2017 10:32 pm 
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slobodan wrote:
puertoayacucho wrote:
Complicated? No my friend...that is what I call the basics!
The only difference in my sumps is that I layer them horizontally


:) at least I've done something right.. :)
Thanks Ed for your input..


Complicated and stupid was me not considering the loaded weight of a 24 x 18 x 4 inch bio sponge in my 90gs and all the crap it could hold and that I would eventually need to take it out of the tank to rinse it. Worse yet, never thinking for a moment what would happen if circulation stopped and the bacteria in these oversized sponges would die off. Well, now I know.
I did not wait for the same thing to happen in my 210g with a 29 x 24 x 4 sponge.

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God listens. He may not always give you everything you want, when you want it; but he always gives you what you really need, when you need it most!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 12:34 pm 
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Location: Aarhus, Denmark, Europe
I am running a matten filter - 88 x 88 c 10 cm, the entire back wall of the aquarium.

Advantages:

Slow filtration, good for bio filtration and Altums don't like a lot of water movment.
Big filter volume for cleaning bacteria to grow on
Inside tank filter - no risk of leak from filter
Low power usage. Run by 2 small powerheads - only using 7 watts each
In my opinion also a reasonably nice looking black/green algea backwall of the aquarium
Offers a great place for hiding stuff: heaters, powerheads, peat bags for lowering PH etc.
Does not suck in any yet uneaten live food or fish fry - very safe.

Disadvantages

Takes up a LOT of tank space - 10-15%
Does not remove larger pieces of dirt
More visible free floating dirt in the water


Conclusion
It's working quite well - on the other hand i am irritated by the free floating dirt in the water.
I have recently purchased a huge eheim canister filter. Have not installed it yet as I have no clue how to get the massive sponge out of the tank. Not really sure I want to try it.


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PostPosted: Fri Apr 21, 2017 6:51 pm 
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puertoayacucho wrote:
slobodan wrote:
puertoayacucho wrote:
Complicated? No my friend...that is what I call the basics!
The only difference in my sumps is that I layer them horizontally


:) at least I've done something right.. :)
Thanks Ed for your input..


Complicated and stupid was me not considering the loaded weight of a 24 x 18 x 4 inch bio sponge in my 90gs and all the crap it could hold and that I would eventually need to take it out of the tank to rinse it. Worse yet, never thinking for a moment what would happen if circulation stopped and the bacteria in these oversized sponges would die off. Well, now I know.
I did not wait for the same thing to happen in my 210g with a 29 x 24 x 4 sponge.


O don't beat yourself for that because when I read your post I did one of those "Holly crap, I would've not thought about that either" :) We've all been there, I know I have more than once.. :)

One thing for sure, on my 150Gal with 24 adult angels, I have to replace socks 2 times a week and they do collect lot's of debris. I even had to clean sponges once as water-flow was drastically reduced at one point. By the way, socks are 25 micron. I built both of my sumps and I think I have it figured out so I'm not going to look at anything else for a while.

I'm probably pushing 1100 gal/h but because my plumbing is 1 1/4" water doesn't have any significant velocity just volume and my altums just leisurely swim around with no problem. I'm using WaveLine DC pumps for which I can regulate velocity and they are pretty much dead silent.

I hope that helps someone..


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